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I.S.O Mastering DSLR

Wednesday, June 22, 2011

Back in the days of yore when everything was black and white, cameras used film. I.S.O. was a measure of the film's speed. The lower the I.S.O. the less sensitive the film was to light and vice versa. Now that we're living in the future, most folks use digital cameras rather than film. Digital cameras still have I.S.O. but now it measures the light sensitivity of a sensor instead of film.
Here's a quick video that explains it even more



So, now that we're clear on what I.S.O. is, let's see what the different I.S.O. settings look like! Leave it to the Vimeo community to upload tons of I.S.O. tests. Here's an especially good one by Amila C. Kumarasinghe. He uses a very low-light setting to take us from I.S.O. 100 to 6400 on her Canon 60D.



If you paid close attention, you'll see that the higher the I.S.O. the more light the camera picked up, but the image started getting noisy. Digital noise makes the color black look grainy and fuzzy (noisy!). Here's another test video from Andrew Schär that shows the noise in each of the different I.S.O. settings on a Canon 60D.



So what's the best way to use I.S.O.? Well, you'll typically want to choose the lowest I.S.O. that still gives you a good image. In low light situations, you'll have to bump it up but try to stay below 3200 if you can!


If you have a camera that allows you to change your I.S.O. you'll usually be able to access it through the menu and it will probably look something like this:


Pro tip... As you're choosing your I.S.O. there are a few settings, even low ones, that cause more noise and you'll want to avoid.



Good ISOs: 160, 320, 640, 1250, and 2500
Avoid using: 125, 250, 500, and 1000. These ISO settings create noise and make your footage look grainy.



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posted by DSLR MASTER, 11:23 AM | link | 0 comments |
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Less Budget photography lenses for DSLR cameras

Wednesday, June 8, 2011


As much as we might hate to admit it, price is one of the most prominent factors when selecting photography equipment. Even to professionals, cost matters, because higher equipment costs mean less cash in pocket at the end of the day. Profit margins may not be an issue for amateurs, but instead it may be a function of what one can afford. We’d all like to have the best of everything, but in reality we have to pick and choose. In this article, we’ll look at some of the strategies to stretch your dollar and get the best gear for your needs.

Specialize


If most your photography is sports related, there isn’t a lot of sense in spending much money on wide-angle lenses. Instead the large majority of your lens budget should go towards telephoto lenses. Landscape photographers should probably invest mostly in wide-angles, but somebody such as a wedding photographer might have a need for a wide variety of lenses. Even then, it would still be a good idea to invest in a couple really good lenses, and work with those, instead of having five mediocre lenses. It is okay to have different types of lenses, providing you actually use them. Though if the lens would be used for less than 10 to 20 out of 100 shots, it isn’t worth spending the money on. Spend the money on lenses that will be used for 20, 30, or 40 shots out of 100. Your photographic opportunities may be slightly more limited, but the pictures you do take will be of unequaled quality.


New vs. Used


It’s always nice to break the seal on a box containing a brand new Canon L series lens, but is it really worth the cost? As photography has become more popular, especially at the amateur level, there is more movement of used equipment throughout the market. Not only does this mean there is more of it, but also that it’s less expensive. Simple supply/demand economics tell us that the more of something there is, the less it will cost. Lenses such as the Canon 70-200’s are extremely popular, to the point where there are hundreds on sites such as eBay at any given time, new and used. Canon lists the MSRP for the 70-200 f/4L USM at just over $800. However, on eBay, just by quickly scanning through completed auctions, the same lens – lightly used but in great condition – can be found for around $550. Obviously nothing compares to a brand new lens, but if you’re willing to settle for one gently used, but still void of any scratches on the body or glass, you can often save anywhere from 20-40% the cost of a new lens. eBay is not the only place to find used equipment; Craigslist is another valuable resource for finding great deals on used equipment. A notable benefit of Craigslist is that the transactions are more interactive and personal, and you are almost guaranteed to be able to see and try the lens before actually purchasing it, a feature not provided by eBay. NOTE: I have had many successful transactions using both of these sites, but always use caution when buying lenses from any online retailer or website. Ensure the quality of the lens is as described, and never purchase a lens with any notable defects. Don’t sacrifice quality just to save $50. In the end that extra $50 will probably mean a nice, clean, like-new lens.


Primes


Primes are fixed focal length lenses, which often feature a high maximum aperture. Zoom lenses other than those typically selling for over $1000 are hard to find much faster than f/4. There are few under $1000, but the current models as fast as f/2.8 are in the $1500 range. Primes, however, are usually extremely fast and don’t demand the price tag of the upper-level lenses. The MSRP for Canon’s 50mm f/1.8 is only $130. Almost the entire lens, including the mount, is plastic, but that little money for that fast of lens is hard to beat. Canon offers other faster and better built versions of the 50mm, but the price tag reflects this. Having a couple prime lenses in the bag is never a bad idea. They are great for those low light situations when even an f/2.8 isn’t fast enough, or when a short depth-of-field is crucial.

The Other Guys


Commonly referred to as off-brands, Sigma and Tamron have recently made a resurgence into the digital photography world. Taking advantage of the fact that Canon continues to raise prices, these two companies offer lenses that often rival the quality of the Canon lenses, and are almost always less expensive by a decent margin. Until recently, my city’s local camera store only carried Canon and Nikon equipment, but recently they have started carrying both Sigma and Tamron. Every time I ask the associate about a certain type of lens, they not only suggest the typical Canon model, but also always point out the Sigma or Tamron counterpart. The store maintains a very high level of quality for the equipment they carry (even the point and shoots begin around $200), so this is even more proof that these two brands offer a high quality alternative to the expensive Canon and Nikon lenses. The off-brand lenses are made in the various mounts for the respective brands, and work just like any brand-name lens. It’s almost hard to call Sigma and Tamron off-brands anymore because of how prominent they have become in the digital industry.


Conclusion 


You may be in a position where money isn’t a factor when considering lenses, but I believe I can speak for most of us when I say it is. The decision between better price and quality is often a tough one, but the best thing to do is research all the available options, and make a decision based on what is best for you. Any of these strategies can be used individually or in conjunction to get the best value for your money.

Thank you to Cameron Shulak





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Turn Off Lens Image Stabilization / Vibration Reduction for Tripod Mounted DSLR Cameras

Monday, June 6, 2011


Turn Off Lens Image Stabilization / Vibration Reduction for Tripod Mounted DSLR Cameras
When you have Image Stabilization or Vibration Reduction active on your lens the internal mechanics detects movement and counter acts it producing a sharp image. When your camera and lens are mounted on a tripod movement is removed, but your lens can errantly activating its IS/VR mechanism creating an image that is less than sharp. For this reason its a best practice to turn off your lenses IS or VR functionality when it is mounted to a tripod.



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3 Stupidly Simple Reasons Why Most People’s DSLR Photography Does Not Improve

I am presuming that this article will not apply to most of us… but after 3 conversations in the last week which revealed the same photography problems in 3 different people  I thought I’d better jot them down.
Warning: none of this is rocket science sometimes the basics need to be said


1. You don’t Take Your Camera With You


If you don’t practice using your camera you’re unlikely to ever grow in your understanding of and skill in photography and if you rarely have it with you – you’ll not get that practice.
Does that mean you need to lug your DSLR and all your cumbersome gear around with you all the time?
Maybe – I have friends who are never without their main camera – but if that’s just not practical, at least make sure you have a smaller point and shoot or even a decent camera phone with you at all times. While the quality of the images you take might not be as great with these cameras – at least you’ll be practicing your composition, thinking about light, color and other aspects of photography.


2. You’re Going too Fast


Many of us lead life at such a fast pace that we rarely stop to see the opportunities right before us to take wonderful images.
You can carry your camera around with you 24/7 for the rest of your life but unless you learn to slow down and to look at the world a little differently you may never actually use it.
As a result  I guess one of the tips I find myself giving to some that I talk to is to find ways to slow down or at least slow down temporarily to set aside time to be a bit more intentional about photography. It might start by taking a walk with the main objective of doing some photography but could also be something bigger like a weekend away with your camera or even taking a photography class or tour.
For me its about building photography into your daily rhythm and in time it starts to become a more natural thing as you get in the habit of seeing life a little differently.



3. You are Worried what Others Will Think


I’ve come across quite a few people lately who suffer from ‘framing paralysis’.
They take their camera with them and they even slow down enough to see the photographic opportunities around the – but there’s just something that stops them lifting their camera up to frame the shot.
When I dig a little I’ve found in most of these instances the person is simply worried about what others around the will think if they use their camera. Will they look stupid? Will people think that they’re photographing them?


Its a feeling I’ll admit to having myself in the past and when I asked about it on our Facebook page the other day it seems that it’s quite common.


I guess the key to moving through framing paralysis is to grow your confidence as a photographer. For me the more photos I took and the more I began to exercise the discipline of taking images the easier it got. Another friend of mine got over his paralysis by finding a photography buddy to go out with – two of the taking shots somehow seemed less confronting than him doing it alone.


What do You Think?


Of course the above are very simple things that hold many people back and there are bound to be others that readers here at dPS might have experienced. I’d love to hear from you on two fronts:
what other simple things hold you (or other photographers) back from improving?
what tips and solutions would you give others facing these problems?



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Macro Ring LED Light for DSLR cameras

Saturday, June 4, 2011

A macro ring LED light that works on any lens, even some Point and Shoot cameras. These LED Macro ring lights come with a variety of adapter sizes that will attach using the Filter thread of your lens. LED macro ring lights are specifically designed to evenly light very close shots. How well does this particular ring light work? Overall most customers were very pleased with the light for the money spent on about 4 out of 5 stars on average. You can see some fine examples of these lights in use over at Flickr.




This is not flash. The battery operated LED ring light constantly emits light and provides permanent lighting for subjects. With the LED lamp mode controller, you can adjust the three modes: all light, half left light, and half right light. With the power mode controller, you can choose two different power input modes to offers you continuous light.


Definitely very effective on small close objects, but might be a real stretch if used for close-ups of people. It could be used as a clean ring of light in the eye like these Mesmerizing Macro Photos of the Human Eye.




Quick Specs:
6 x Adapter Rings Included! (49mm/52mm/55mm/58mm/62mm/67mm)
Specially designed ring shape is perfect for MACRO photography (close-up).
This light has a double-duty power supply design which allows you to use 2 x AA batteries or DC power
This lighting unit provide a continuous lighting (not flashing), the continuous lighting allows you handle exposure easily.



BUY HERE



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Different error codes in canon eos DSLR cameras

Err 50


"Err 50 Shooting is not possible. Turn the power switch to and again or re-install the battery"

It suddenly happened. At that time I'm using the ONE SHOT focus mode, Manual, F5.6, ISO100, RAW+L jpg, I'd take one picture and then see the message. I'm Using Canon 50D with grip, Canon 10-22mm lens, 4gb 133x CF card. Very frustrating. Also, the shutter seems to move really slow, regardless of my settings. Prior to that "Err 50", last week I also experience "err99" also taking landscape photos outside, also near a harbour. When I got home that day, I search here at DPP thread about "err 99" and find out some hints, they say its maybe the Lens, CF Card, Battery and the worst the Camera itself. I also find out its maybe the firmware, so I updated my firmware from my original firmware v1.03 to the new v1.07 successfully, from that firmware update I didn't experience the "err 99" yet, but here comes "err 50", I just wondering if that "err 50" and "err 99" is connected in any other way. Anyway, did any of you experience this "err 50"? I can't find any post here at DPP regarding this error. Is it on Canon cameras only? If this thing really persist on happening everytime I'm taking photos outside, I have to bring my camera to the shop where I bought my 50d.





Err Code in Canon EOS DSLR cameras


10 Malfunctions related to files have been detected.
20 Malfunctions related to the mechanical have been detected.
30 Malfunctions related to the shutter have been detected.
40 Malfunctions related to the power source have been detected.
50 Malfunctions related to the electric control have been detected.
70 Malfunctions related to images have been detected.
80 Malfunctions related to the electric control or images have been detected.



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NA-550D DSLR housing under water rig

The NA-550D housing is the latest member of the Nauticam family designed to accommodate the hugely popular Canon 550D, Canon’s latest upper entry level DSLR with 1080p HD video function.

The NA-550D housing inherits the renowned piano keys from NA-7D housing and the signature port locking system. The top piano key/rocker key controls AE lock, the middle for AF point selection, and the bottom provides access to the quick control button. One particularly innovative feature of the housing is the play back button, located below the camera's cross keys, and now accessible at the left top side of the housing. This means you can easily play back images underwater with your left thumb while keeping both hands on grips. The housing also features a new fingertip ISO paddle, for changing ISO speed located on the top of the housing. We have also worked on the sensitivity of the shutter release lever which incorporates an enhanced mechanism, allowing a very responsive half-press auto focus.

KEY FEATURES
- NA-550D incorporates two plastic locks to secure housing instead of using stainless steel latches

- Super-sensitive shutter release mechanism

- Aperture exposure compensation swith/lever, no need to be held down while turning the command wheel

- Lens release button is available with the NA-550D housing

- Two optical bulkheads and one electrical input for different lighting choices

- Standard optical pick up viewfinder come along with the housing

Technical Data

Construction:

Housing body: Hard anodized aluminum alloy
Display window: Abrasion resistant polycarbonate
Grip handles: Polycarbonate and rubber

Dimensions:

Width: 180mm (without handles)
Height: 158mm
Thickness: 120mm

Depth rating: 100 meters



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How to Repair the Write Protect on an SD card for DSLR cameras

Friday, June 3, 2011

Are you facing this problem often, that your SD card for DSLR cameras shows " This card is write protected" and you are not able to do anything with that card. Don't worry here is the simple solution for that. The the reason for this post is because this morning I have faced the same problem with my 8GB San Disk got write protected and i was not able to shoot.

Most of the time it happens because the knob in the SD card got broken and you are not able to lock or unlock the SD card.

Please watch this video tutorial carefully and you would be happy to see how easy it is.




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Use of DOF (depth of field) button in your DSLR camera

Thursday, June 2, 2011

The DOF preview button in your DSLR camera helps you to check the DOF that will be in the final shot. The lens aperture closes to the predefined value (lets say to f8 for example). The viewfinder gets darker, as less light transfers through the lens. But that is not everything. The DOF you see in the viewfinder is the same as will be in the final photograph. The DOF preview is useful when composing. However, if you have a f2.8 lens and the camera set to shoot at f2.8, pressing the DOF preview button does nothing. As expected, becouse the lens is wide and will be used wide open.



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